Go figure.
Upon returning home from HI, I caught a pretty nasty virus and didn't get back into the water until today. The air temp was 54 degrees. The water temp -- colder. A lot colder. I don't believe the buoys that called it 55 degrees; I'm pretty sure it was hovering at the 50 mark. I used the hooded R3 from Patagonia and felt nice and toasty, albeit a bit confined and pinched after surfing for 2 weeks without a wetsuit. Huh.
Not only are the air and water temps different in California, it turns out the waves aren't quite as strong either. Huh. Used the Malolo at dying swell Rincon and despite a few flashes of glory, I felt a bit under foamed and over finned. Turns out my HP Keel is STILL the magic board. Mind you, I'll be happy to have the Malolo for decent Sandspit, but head high and crumbly Rincon ain't quite enough push for this little fishy. I did manage to get one glory wave through (a few through, but only 1 that felt glorious) and was able to modify my carve to get it to work well. Got a few compliments. Also had a few waves with significant speed bumps. At Rincon... huh.
Just putting thoughts to the ether. Tomorrow, I'm snow bound!
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