Crappy Cell Phone Pics (Probably the 1st in a series)

On Maui.  Surfed H Bay yesterday understanding the report was 6-8, occasional 10' surf.  I assumed it was Hawaiian scale.  Drove an hour to find... 2-3' surf, occasional 4'... HI scale (which is 6-8' California scale).  Had a blast, but didn't bring the fish because of the surf report.  Doh!  It would have been perfect.  Saw Ian (who now teaches on Oahu), helped keep a kid from getting dragged and trashed in the cave (he was right in front of it!), and had fun surfing the top with just a few other guys.  Lots of smiles.  Relaxing and a great start.

So today, hearing the same report, I went to the other side of the island knowing the surf there is bigger.  Holy crap.  It WAS 6-8, occasional 10' HI surf.  Brought the 6'4" step-up and the fish.  Had to use the 6'4".  SHOULD have been on a 7' plus gun.  Saw my old friend Alan which was nice (His first question to me wasn't "Steve, when did you get here?"  Instead it was, "Steve, what size board are you on?"), got dropped in on by a heavy which was also nice, and took some serious gas paddling in the high tide conditions which wasn't nice at all.  As I was coming in, I saw a pro kid get worked, snap his board, and dragged into the rocks.  Lifeguards had to rescue him.  (Pretty sure he was stoked to have that caught on film by his videographer.)

Being on a smaller board, I had to stick myself right under the lip and commit.  It was fun, but for the bombs I wish I'd had a gun.

Hoping to grab a surf with Josh tomorrow.

Now for the crappy cell phone pics that do NOTHING to show what it was like.  If you click on them they get bigger.  So you can see more blurred stuff.  And sand.

-Steve